Ben Nevis was my first winter climb in the Scottish Highlands. I’ve only been to Edinburgh before and always wanted to have a chance to experience the Scottish mountaineering. January 2020 wasn’t the best (but also not the worst) time for the Ben Nevis climb.
The scenery of the Scottish Highlands was a bit darker than in spring but snow, ice, and lower temperatures can transform the landscape into a unique dramatic scenery. Winter makes Ben Nevis climb much more challenging, but it’s perfect hiking training ahead of more demanding peaks.
Ben Nevis climb in wintertime.
Ben Nevis is the highest peak in the UK, towering at 1,345 meters (4,413 feet).
Ben Nevis is not only the highest peak in the UK but also one of the most visited mountains in the world. While summer climbs draw thousands of hikers, winter climbing includs snow, ice, and the potential for severe weather changes.
The average time taken to climb Ben Nevis is 8-9 hours both ways (ALL DEPENDING ON WEATHER CONDITIONS).
The route both ways is around 16 kilometers.
It is best to stay in Fort William town (Glen Nevis Youth Hostel is perfect!), which is the gateway to Ben Nevis climb and is located on the shores of Loch Linnhe.
How to get to Ben Nevis?
I flew to Edinburgh (check best flight deals on SkyScanner.com) and took a bus via Glasgow to Fort William – a famous backpackers town is Scotland. There are several ways to get to Fort William, such as by bus or train. It does take a bit of an effort to travel there by public transport but at the same time, you have a chance to see the countryside.
Well, I didn’t quite have this opportunity as it was lashing all the way! I was only thinking about weather conditions while I’ll be undertaking the Ben Nevis climb.
The drive takes 5.5 hours no matter if you travel by bus or a train. The bus drops you down at Fort William’s small bus station. You can book a room in Fort William but I was looking forward to staying outside of the city in Glen Nevis Youth Hostel, right next to Ben Nevis. 🙂
Where to stay ahead of Ben Nevis climb?
Glen Nevis Youth Hostel is magic. It’s located a few kilometres south of Fort William, I took a taxi for £10 to get there and it took 5 minutes. The taxi driver was chatty with a very heavy accent and mentioned I must be mad doing Ben Nevis climb this time of the year! ‘Well, he said, the rescue team will be busy tomorrow’. It was hilarious but also a bit concerning. 🙂
Glen Nevis Youth Hostel is the only place to stay if you are hiking Ben Nevis. It’s an amazing place to stay, a big wooden house located between the mountains with a river flowing along the road. There was almost nobody at the time I reached the place, which made it feel even more enigmatic.
I highly recommend visiting the restaurant, which is located 20 minutes walk from the Hostel taking Fort William direction. One of the best foods I’ve ever tried. You need to try the soup (don’t remember the Scottish name but it’s Irish chowder). Unbelievable! Anyway the place is great, there’s a cozy fire place and a great atmosphere.
Climbing Ben Nevis in winter!
Starting point: Glen Nevis Youth Hostel, 3 miles south Fort William via C1162. You just have to cross the bridge and the path up is right there – there’s only one road so no chance you’ll miss it.
ROUTE: total climb: walk up and down – 7-9 hours in winter (we did it in less than 7 hours).
GUIDE: Need to book in advance. There are lots of places in Fort William where you can hire a guide. Gear is usually included in the price, so you don`t need to bring your own crampons and ice-axe.
I paid £250 for the guide. The price is much lower if you have 2-3 people.
Ben Nevis mountaineering.
Ben Nevis mountaineering is an adventure requiring some preparation.
First of all check the Mountain Weather Forecast: It’s very important to know weather conditions before ascending.
Freezing level (usually starts from 500 m), etc. Sometimes the wind is so strong there’s no point in going up.
Ben Nevis climb in winter.
Ben Nevis elevation is 1345 m, it is often covered in snow and ice through the cooler months but the snow might remain till spring. The ascent requires a good level of fitness and some hiking skills but winter experience would be very useful. There is also a risk of avalanches so don`t ignore it.
I met my guide quarter to 8 a.m. and after fitting the crampons and finishing packing we began our adventure. Crampons and ice axe is a must!! Even if you are not going to use them, it’s absolutely essential you carry them with you.
Weather conditions might change very quickly and you can never predict what will be needed there. In tough conditions everything is twice useful. At the time we were leaving the hostel the guide still could not predict what conditions we’ll meet up there.
Ben Nevis difficulty.
Basically in my opinion an average person with a good fitness level can reach Ben Nevis. However, you need to be prepared for drastic winter conditions. The combination of cold weather and potentially deep snow can significantly increase the effort required to reach the summit. Regular cardio exercises and strength training focusing on leg and core muscles can prepare your body for the climb. Along with the right attitude, you will have no problem to summit 😉
Best time to walk Ben Nevis.
The best time for Ben Nevis climb is from May to September if you want to avoid snow and extreme weather conditions. The summer months are more gentle and you might even get some sunshine.
Ben Nevis scent routes.
Climbing Ben Nevis in winter often requires technical skills, particularly if you plan to tackle routes that aren’t the standard path. Basic mountaineering techniques, including using an ice axe and crampons, are extremely helpful on icy terrain. A guide for a winter walk course will help you build your knowledge and experience.
Climbing Ben Nevis in winter.
The path leading to the tallest mountain in the UK is challenging. Remember the rule – short steps and a calm pace to save your legs don’t get tired too early. It gets a bit steep in the last hour of a climb and you would need to focus on your footwork, as the surface might be covered with ice.
Stay stable as the wind can be extremely strong. It was raining at the beginning of the track, so you need to wear a raincoat to avoid getting wet as it gets freezing in the higher parts. But the snow has already arrived at the upper level, so I knew the conditions up there might be tough. Hiking in the snow was easier, it allowed us to stay stable and I was basically following my guide’s deep footsteps. Much worse was the wind.
My guide said that sometimes the wind gets so strong that it’s not possible to make a step forward and you need to go back. It was the only thing I was afraid of… that we wouldn’t be able to reach the summit. I know it’s crazy but it actually doesn’t matter how high is the mountain, the only thing that is in your mind is summiting! No matter what! Eventually, it was fine, overall conditions were crazy but it was doable, even with a dense fog for most of the way up.
What to take when climbing Ben Nevis in winter?
Don’t wear all the layers from the start, the path is steep enough so you’ll quickly warm up and sweat. The trail is well visible at the beginning, it’s made from stones, which makes it very difficult to walk on the way back. The path was so slippery that I fell down a couple of times and almost couldn’t walk down. The views are amazing, once you reach the stream you can stop for a minute to admire the scenery. The water is so clean there that you can refill your bottle, although it was too cold for me to drink… The wind was getting stronger, especially on the exposed slopes. Apart from us, there was only one more guide with another lad on the mountain and a single hiker/obviously very experienced. Weather conditions on the top were mad! Extremely strong wind allowed us to stay only for 2-3 minutes to take a picture and a short video but my hand was suffering for the next half an hour.
What to bring for Ben Nevis climb?
- Insurance! and a small safety kit (including whistle!).
- Rain jacket and winter windproof jacket! I have Northface and I have to say this jacket is class! Never imagined clothing can make such a difference.
- Crampons and ice axe – and compatible rucksack to fit them.
- Water, drink/redbull, coke – you will need sugar and energy!
- Snacks/almonds/sandwich/flapjack/chocolate – protein, energy snacks.
- Few layers – have extra layer in your bsckpack.
- 2x pair of gloves, googles (yes – they really help in heavy snow falls) and a warm hat.
- Hiking shoes (crampon compatible) and 2 pairs of warm (waterproof) socks. Very important – Gaiters – it’s a great snow protection.
- Waterproof trousers with a zip on the bottom to cover the crampons.
You might also like: Climbing Snowdon – the second-highest mountain in the UK.
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